 |
Washington
has the distinction as having the only wilderness ocean beaches in the lower 48
states. All 57 miles of these beaches are contained within Olympic National Park
on the Pacific Coast. Among them are Cape Alava, First Beach, Second Beach, Third Beach, Ruby,
Rialto, and Shi Shi, in addition to countless other smaller unnamed pocket beaches.
Imagine sea stacks, starfish, driftwood, and constant pounding surf and that is Olympic's coastal beaches.
One beach,
however, stands out from the rest. Ranked #1 by Outside magazine as America's Sweetest Beach
and Travel Channels #5 Best Beach is Shi Shi Beach (pronounced Shy Shy).
Unlike the other top beaches, you can leave your swim trunks and beach towel at
home. The draw here is the wilderness. In addition to the rugged coast in front
of you, the beach features a forested backdrop that reaches right down to the
sand. Deer, bear, and bald eagles are numerous in addition to seals, whales and
countless shorebirds. Shi Shi beach occupies just 2 of those 57 miles, but it
makes up for its lack of size with stunning beauty. It is the jewel of the bunch
with a prolific collection of sea stacks at its southern end known as Point of
the Arches.
Once used in the past by the
Makah Indians as a summer village, Shi Shi's
future had for quite some time been something of a question mark. During the
1960's, its distinction was that of being the host of a hippy squatters' camp.
Prior to its addition to the Park Service registry in 1976, the area behind the
beach was slated for development. Recently, groups have been trying to exploit
an apparent legal loophole to mine the area around the beach. In addition,
access has until just recently always been a problem. The park's official
southern access route involves a crossing of the Ozette River, possible only at
low tide, followed by a 13 mile epic beach walk involving skirting or climbing
over several headlands. The newer northern route is easier, but
necessitates purchasing a Makah Indian Reservation recreation permit (in
addition to a National Park permit) and paying parking money to local
landowners. However, it involves a much shorter 4 mile walk to the beach, 2 miles of which are on either
boardwalk or graveled trail and the remaining 2 miles on a always wet and muddy trail.
The work,
however, is worth the reward......
|